The Zambians--at last

After 8 weeks in my village of Mpepo and 4 months in the country, I feel that I know enough of the people to write some general impressions of the Zambian people.

The first thing one notices is how important greetings are.  We never pass a stranger on the road or even a hut off the road without shouting a greeting.  There are many different greetings--one for every activity and time of day--but very important.  We learned many in language class.  The words are not enough.  Anyone within arms length will do a three part handshake (like a "power-to-the-people" shake).  If you are riding a bike or far away, you pound your chest while greeting in lieu of the handshake.  If the person is older, a male, or of importance, you do a courtsy and brace your shaking arm with your other arm.  All illustrates the formality of respect and etiquette practiced here.  If you launch into businesss right away or continue to talk to your partner while you pass people on the path, it is considered very rude.  Also, you preface an adult's name with "Ba" which is respectful.  So toward me they might greet me as "Ba Mary."  The rest of my name they couldn't get their tongue around.  There is no "r" in their alphabet, so Rivero is impossible for them to say.  However, as a sign of respect they call me "Mama" and do the courtsey thing.  When I participated in a workshop I saw a latecomer click his heels together and bow to the facilitator from the waist before taking his seat.

But despite their formalities, their friendliness and hospitality are apparent.  As we were warned, they gave me a village nickname as sign of acceptance:  It is "Banakulu chanda" (Grandmother of Chanda--a name equivalent to Smith in English).  Great!  All my life people have told me that Mary Ellen was too long and now I have a 6 syllable nickname.  But they are always smiling and easy-going.  They have verbalized often how  much they appreciate America's (pronounced Amelika) help.  PEPFAR is the largest anti-AIDs contribution by a single nation.

Village life is small town living.  Most everyone is trustworthy here because they will be taken to task by the headman if they do wrong.  For example, we charge our phones in the maternity ward of the clinic which is open to the public.  I leave my dishes on the outdoor dishrack to dry while I am at work.  That wouldn't happen in the towns.

The villagers are primarily farmers. This is the planting season and they are very busy.  They are all very strong and muscular.  Both men and women work in the fields. Women carry large buckets of water on thier heads while carrying more in their hands and babies on their backs.  Everyone can really swing their hoes with gusto!   They start at 5 am and work until 5 pm.  I read in a travel book that Zambia was in the iron age.  Craftsmen make most of their implements themselves.  My village craftsman made my hoe handle and sharpened it blade for me.  He charged me 4,000 Kwacha (90 cents).  Average annual income is $400 per person. 

The Bembas originally migrated from Ang (which we call Angola) and celebrate their settling here in late August with song and dance during "traditional celebrations".  I will find out more about them this coming year as we were clueless trainees during this year's celebrations--plus I am part of the village life now and will be included.

They are all "clothes horses".  While we Americans look like we just rolled out of our campsites, the Zambians come to work and church with new or neatly pressed clothes.  The student nurses wear uniforms including starched caps and knee-high hose.  All laundry is done by hand and the irons are heated by placing coals inside them.  I have seen some pretty fancy belt buckles, ties and crocodile leather shoes on the men, too.  Just before they go inside the church or wedding party, after their long walks to their destination, they whip a rag out of the purses and wipe off their shoes til they shine again.  This reminds me of the bible story where Jesus chides his Pharisee host for not washing his feet when he arrived at his house.  Clothes and cleanliness are part of respect for themselves and others.

Their personal and national demeanor is very quiet and peaceful. Although there is some domestic violence, there is no shouting and fighting in the streets. One trainer said that they don't argue:  they just are passive-aggresive and know how to get to someone quietly.  The drunks are annoying but not dangerous. One peace corps volunteer who lives very clost to Kasama road said her hut was broken into while she was in bed one night soon after her arrival. She was afraid to move out of fear but could hear the thieves in the next room. They thought the house was empty and as soon as it dawned on them that someone was there, the quickly ran out--no personal violence intended. She said that if that happened now that she knows their charaters and thinking, she would jump up and start yelling, knowing that that would scare them away. One night it was raining and I arrived quite late back from the bike ride--so late that I couldn't find my way through the village to my hut in the dark. I was terrified of the snakes, still cannot see in the dark, and literally got disoriented where I was. Several bicycles past me and then I snagged a young man going on foot in the other direction and asked if he would "escort" me to the clinic. He was pretty much coerced by me because I was panicky. He kindly turned around and started walking with me when we came upon another man going in my direction through the grass. I then asked the second man to accompany me so the other boy could go on his way. Of course he agreed and I found out that his mother was sick and staying the night at the clinic. At no time was I afraid of the boy or the man. Later, upon reflecting, I realized how comfortable and trusting I have become with the Zambians in my village. They blame all thefts on people from Lusaka or Kasama--and by refugees from neighboring nations at war.

At the national level, too, the Zambians are very peaceful. I have had to explain to one of them that it the reason I believe they don't make international news--no wars. I am convinced that they have something to teach us about peace, so I keep asking, "How does a nation of so many languages and tribes remain at peace within and without?" They quickly reply that it is because they are a Christian nation. That answer doesn't hold water with me, knowing that some pretty awful actions throughout history have had the sanction, if not the encouragement, of organized religions. However, our cross-cultural trainer explained that the first president of Zambia (sorry--don't know his name) made it very clear that there was "One Zambia-One people." Ministries of education, health, and police all send their staff to various parts of the country to withhold this concept. As a result there is a lot of intermarrying and "you can't make war on your wife's clan", is how he explained it. Now that makes sense. "Make love, not war"!!